As Adelaide's café scene matures, some well-known businesses are changing hands from their original owners. CityMag spoke with the new proprietors of Mascavado, Sibling and Joe's at Henley about how to take over a venue without ruining it.

When accomplished hospitality operator Daniel Milky, founder of the Argo brand, recently took over Hutt Street patisserie Mascavado, he knew the core of the business needed to be maintained.

Mascavado, in his understanding, is less about “hustle and bustle” and more about taking the time to “sit down and enjoy a pastry”.

“It’s more bring a book, sit, enjoy, relax,” he says.

The café was founded by pâtissier Lea Chairesa early in 2020, and so it was important that the business, under new management, continue its commitment to craft.

The benefit of taking over a venue in which the talents of the staff has been nurtured, Daniel says, is you’ve got a new well of knowledge to draw from.

“You can go in with your own ideas, but be open minded that you could learn something from the team of people you don’t know anything about – and a shop that has been running before you even got there,” he says.

“So, you know, be grateful that the business exists already and you’re getting a shortcut, effectively.”

Daniel Milky working the floor in 2016. This picture: Jules Cebo

Daniel says he’s given Mascavado’s pastry chefs licence to “basically go wild and do whatever they want to do”.

“We’ve been running weekend specials every week now because it’s like, ‘Go explore, go do what you want to do’,” he says.

There is craft, too, in continuing the legacy of a business while also imparting upon it a personal twist.

“You need to know how to do everything, but it’s not going to help anyone if you try to be the champion for everyone,” he says.

“It’s really simple stuff, but sometimes it can be a miss because [the previous owners] were there so much.

“I think you’ve got to be willing to accept that the way things were run previously may not be the way you like things run.”

Sit, relax, explain to your dogs why they can’t have pastries. This picture: Jon Wah

Over at Gilles Street café Sibling (one of our favourite fashion-watching coffee stops), Jimmy Barry says his purchase of the business from its previous owners was a smooth process.

Sibling is his first time as an owner, and he was more than happy to opt for the pressure of taking over an established brand rather than starting from scratch.

“It made it a lot easier just knowing you are guaranteed for people to walk through your doors,” Jimmy says.

Although the café previously had mostly vegan options, Jimmy drew upon his prior experience in the hospitality industry in deciding to broaden the offering.

“Previously it was almost an all-vegan menu, but we changed it to be just lots of vegan options and just tried to include everyone,” Jimmy says.

“I’ve worked in a lot of different cafés, and I’d like to think I have some idea of what works and what doesn’t. I know what’s popular, and things like bacon and cured meats and stuff like that – people love it, and it has worked.”

Jimmy on the tools at Sibling. This picture: Thomas McCammon

Adelaide bar and restaurant group Penny Hospitality has grown its stable significantly over the last 12 months, but back in 2020 it was still a fledgling operation with just a few businesses under its belt – one of which was the well-loved legacy venue Joe’s Kiosk.

Joe’s was more than a kiosk to the local Henley clientele – it was a symbol of community right on the beachfront.

When Penny Hospitality managing director Hugo Pedler began making changes to the site in March 2020, regulars were less than impressed with the idea of a new era for Joe’s.

“Change for anyone is difficult. You’re always going to offend people as you start to change things – especially when they’ve been in a routine with something like Joe’s,” Hugo says.

“You’re always gonna get pushback from certain people, but at the same time, you balance that with a really exciting opportunity of getting a whole new range of people to come to the venue and experience what they haven’t before.”

Hugo at Joe’s. This picture: Johnny von Einem

There were small things Hugo could do to try and keep Joe’s regulars on side.

“You know, we’ve kept the ice cream fridge!” Hugo says.

“They’re still there, you know – still kept the heart and soul of what the kiosk offering was, and now they’re a big part for us.

“It’s a challenge on one hand, but it’s also a great opportunity on another, and when you have an established business like that, it’s really crucial for you not to destroy what has been built before.”

Under Hugo’s stewardship, Joe’s has introduced beach Pilates classes, paint and sip events and the weekly Wednesday morning swimming group, Salty Sippers.

Picking up on the successes of the former business enables a new owner to create a new legacy, sometimes for an expanded community to enjoy.

Connect with the current-era Mascavado, Sibling and Joe’s on Instagram.